Tuesday, July 10, 2007

The New York Bar

Tokyo, Japan

Two nights ago, I fulfilled a dream that I've had for about a year and a half now. I've always wanted to visit the New York Bar on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt building in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Mainly because I saw it in "Lost In Translation" (the quintessential movie viewing choice of anyone coming to Japan) and thought it looked freakin' awesome.

I've had a problem with wanting to go to some bars; I build up this image in my mind of what I think it will be like, and I'm always disappointed in some way. It happened with Bungalow 8 and Establishment in Sydney and Trailer Happiness in London, so I was afraid that the New York Bar would maintain the trend.

I could never have been so wrong. It was everything I imagined it would be, and more. High ceilings, wood panels. Low lighting, intimate atmosphere. Live jazz band playing. And a view out over Tokyo that you would pay a cover charge for (which we did).

The three members of the Dandelion Club (Jonny, Phil, and moi) went along to check the bar out. I started with a Negroni, the boys with an Asahi. I knew they sold cigars, so I checked out the list and picked up a Cohibo Siglos II. I matched it up with some Baker's bourbon on the rocks, while Phil went with a Rusty Nail and Jonny chose a 42 Below vodka based cocktail from the house list.

So picture me in black leather shoes, black pants, white long sleeved shirt, suspenders, black tie, bourbon in one hand, cigar in the other, my back to the awesome backdrop of Tokyo in a stunningly amazing bar at the top of a really tall tower in the middle of Japan, and you may see something like this.



This is the shit worth living for.

I'll see if I can get some video we took at the bar up on Youtube later tonight. In the meantime...be content in the knowledge that I've finally found a bar that exceeds all of my expectations, and that I am most definitely returning to before I fly out. Sophia Coppela, Bill Murray, thank you for finding this for me.

The Dandelion Club, by the way, is the name we've coined for anyone who ate the dandelion flower garnish at our Japanese dinner in Niigata. Honestly, with all the "food" on the table, how we were to know that we weren't supposed to eat the damn things?

Sunday, July 8, 2007

Part Deux

Edit: Ive gotten the photos onto my flash drive and thus onto the interwebs! Enjoy. I particularly like this one I took yesterday at the landowners manor...thats a mini buddha statue, by the way.

Hey all. Im really freakin sorry that I havent been updating the blog as often as I promised. Youd think that in the middle of technology central that the internet would be widely available, cheap, and plentiful.

That, of course, would be a shockingly bad mistake to make.

So I have to make do with my 3 buck hours in a net cafe in the middle of Shibuya. That would be where the worlds busiest pedestrian road crossing thing is. Id put up a photo if a) I had one and b) I could get photos onto these computers. This is a repeat of Europe all over again. Why is it that only in Thailand, which isnt the most developed country in the world (but is hands down the second best country in the world after Australia), that the internet is cheap and readily available?
So heres the belated photo of Shibuya. Enjoy!

Anyway. There are 36 scholars, hailing from South Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, The Phillipines, Vietnam, Thailand, Australia, and New Zealand. Our program actually consists of just us scholars in a room in a conference complex (accomodation and meeting rooms and food halls), where we have a speaker come and talk to us for a while then we ask questions. One thing Im noticing is that whenever any other nationality (aside from the kiwis) asks a question, they always argue their point before asking it. Cant you just ask a simple question? Please? It makes life much easier.

Weve had topics on Japanese culture and language, NGO work in Cambodia, and problems facing Japan. The last one was given by the former undersecretary general for the United Nations humanitarian aid branch, which was pretty cool. The last one was my favourite, but was really subjected to the point I made above about people arguing their opinion rather than asking a question. Obviously some folks want a discussion rather than a lecture, which is an interesting approach.

This weekend we took the bullet train (or Shikonen...shikanen...seriously, my Japanese is so shit Im afraid to even say hello for fear of offending someone so apparently its called a shikansen) out to Nigata and Murakami, where they like to make some salmon. And when I say make, they live for the stuff. And when I say some, I mean a SHITLOAD. We are talking dried salmon here, not salmon fillets or anything. Quite an interesting dish, but if I dont see any salmon for a while, that would be a nice change.

We were in town for a local festival that consisted of hordes of neighbours all dragging excessively large two story wooden carts down the main road in a haphazardly staggered pattern that I first thought was an indication of how drunk their ancestors were when they first did this festival.

At 3pm on the button, though, all the carts stopped, the neighbours put the yokes down, and then from out of nowhere enough booze to drown Zimbabwe appeared. It appears that the ancestors werent the only ones getting drunk at this festival! It was a hot day, and a beer would go down well.

So, being the friendly fellow I am, I immediately checked with our handlers to see if it was ok for us to join in.

And yea, it was good. So I trundled off with a few friends in tow to find the nearest bottleo/convenience store, which happened to be up around the corner. A few cans of Asahi later, we were in the midst of the festival lapping it up. Very random, yet it felt so Australian. I can picture the way it would go down in Oz...
`Hey Jono mate...`
`Yeah man?`
`This cart is heavy. Wanna beer?`
`I thought youd never fucking ask...` *cue the raucous drinking*

We spent the night in a local Onsen or hot spring resort/hotel, which was quite lavish and luxurious. Apparently its the first and last time that this will happen for the JAL scholars, since it was the first year that JAL did this trip in partnership with the national railway providers, so the railway guys wanted to impress. We didnt complain.

An onsen is the same as the naked bath houses. You go starkers into the wash room, sit on this little stool, and scrub yourself clean. Wash all the suds off with a shower / bucket of water, then go and sit in the onsen (hot spring) and chill out like no mans business. We had a view out over some hedges at the sea of japan, just as the sun was setting.

Pretty freakin awesome.
Me, Phil, and Jonny, then Katelyn and Monica in our yukate. Thats what theyre called!
We got to wear...katabe...shitake...wonton...see, told you my japanese was shit. Anyway, we got to wear kimonos except theyre not called kimonos, theyre made of cotton and are worn at less formal occassions and in summer. Got a few photos of us all decked out in the gear, and we may or may not have looked like Jedi. And I may or may not have gotten the kiwis to pose with me with chopsticks and photoshopped a photo of us so we were holding lightsabers.

Im a geek, I know. Ssssh Kit...

At the onsen, we were treated to this lavish japanese dinner that was intricate and delicious. It was apparently a very awesome meal, but since none of us had all that much experience with Japanese food, we had no basis of comparison so the awesomeness was lost on us. This may be what it feels like when I offer some awesome wine to people who just dont get it...sorry gang, didnt realise. :(

After the meal and the obligatory 45 minutes of everyone taking photos and group shots of everyone else in kimono gear, Greg, Phil and Jonny from NZ, and me all went in search of the bar to have a few quite bevvos. Greg and I enjoyed a beer, while Phil and Jonny tried sake.
Jonny passed his sake to me and promptly requested a beer about three seconds later.

Sake tastes delicious compared to the shitty homebrew rice wine we had in Thailand, so as I was polishing off the little bottle that Jonny gave me, in walks two of the Japanese Railway staff. They saw me drinking sake. They thought I liked sake (I can stand it, but I wouldnt choose it). So five minutes later they come over and offer us all some local sake...and I could foresee the night getting progressively downhill from that point. We joined them at their table, and four 350mL bottles of sake later, the Japanese and Greg were rolling drunk (G is half Japanese, he blames his mum) and the rest of us were quite happy. So we thought wed go visit the onsen for the last half hour before it closed. Mmm...warm spa bath while drunk and naked...quite awesome!

Today we visited a traditional Japanese landowners mansion circa 1889, and it was deliciously boring. There was an awesome Japanese garden though, which was a pleasant surprise. We decided that a beautiful Japanese garden was universally beautiful to all nationalities, which brought me to pondering what was it about the garden that made it so attractive? I figured that there is some form of underlying structure and form to it that can be perceived by everyone, regardless of their home culture.

Tonight was supposed to be a quiet night in on the internet back in the complex, as our new dorms were supposed to have internet access.

Of course, the dorms were built in 1972 and internet `access` is a loose term. VERY loose term. So we come to the beginning, where I mentioned I was in Shibuya.

Tomorrow is my free day, and Im about to go plan it courtesy of wikitravel. All I know is, tomorrow night, Im going to the New York Bar at the Tokyo Park Hyatt, and its going to be wonderful. A cigar or two, some beautiful bourbon, the 52nd story of a tower overlooking Tokyo, wood panelling and a dark interior, hopefully some good company...thats what Im talkin` bout.

I hope you dont mind the excessively long post and the necessary skipping of a lot of details. It would take me forever to type up details of the events up to today, but I may keep a daily blog on my laptop and just upload that whenever I need to do a blog post. Might save you guys some eye strain.

Take care.

Friday, July 6, 2007

A Free Moment

Tokyo, Japan

Ok, so Im on the same computer but I have 20 minutes left to kill on my 290 yen internet hour (thats about 3 bucks). The flight over was fine, considering it was free. Legroom was an issue even though I got an exit door; how was I to know the window seat on an exit row had my right leg squished against the big jutting out bit of the exit door? I sat next to an old british couple so I didn:t quite feel right taking advantage of the free drinks afforded to me courtesy of JAL.

I landed and progressed through customs, which may or may not have taken away three hours of my life that Ill never get back. It took forever! Once I was free of the constabulary, I met Ayume and Yuke, two of the japanese scholars in the programme. They introduced me to Cathy, Monica, and Dennis, the three scholars from Taiwan. We bummed around at the airport waiting 45 minutes for Monica and Katelyn to arrive, then hightailed it to the Yoyogi Memorial Centre where the rest of the scholars were having an enjoyable dinner.
We ate sandwiches in the bus. :(

We had a bit of a mingle after that, got assigned some rooms, said goodnight, and I had a good ol chinwag with one of the JAL organisers, Greg. Hes an aussie guy over here doing a one year internship, and is turning out to be a tops bloke. Im rooming for the duration of the trip with Eddie from Malaysia and Demy from Indonesia. I hope I dont keep them up with the snoring.

The next day was the start of the program, where we had a few lectures. Ill reedit this post to tell you more about the lectures when I have access to my notes and some more time.

Actually, do have to fly, running out of time. So Ill edit this post with the goings on of the next few days and the last few days when we get back from Nigata; we`re going to go eat some salmon, watch a festival, and swim naked in some hot springs while looking out over the ocean at sunset. How often can a bloke says he`s done that? :D

Quickie

hello all from japan!

theres little to no internet access where im staying at the moment )who woulda thunk it!) so therell be some better updating posts with photos on monday when we get back from getting naked in a hot spring over near Nigata. the weirdest thing about being over here is the communal showers. seriously, check it out on wikipedia under Japanese customs and bathing. thankfully im a liberated soul who doesnt mind dropping his strides for the sake of a cleansing shower.

enjoy your weekends as Ill enjoy mine, and therell be a large update post in the next few days.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Japan: Unplugged

Brisbane, Australia

Welcome everyone to Japan: Unplugged! I'm off to Japan on a whirlwind academic scholarship tour courtesy of Japan Airlines, so I figured I'd continue a travelling tradition and maintain a blog. This blog is a continuation of An Australian Scholar in Japan. I decided that I wanted something new and fresh to write with, and I love this layout simply because we have a long and happy history together.

Check out previous travel blogs
Wangthai
and
Easytravelpage

for my Thailand and Europe journals respectively.

The cast of characters in this blog will include other folks, but primarily myself, Katelyn, and Monica. Enjoy a photo taken of us down in Sydney at the JAL scholar selection day on April 19, 2007. The look on my face says it all: seriously, wow.


Katelyn is the lovely lady on the left, and Monica is the lovely lady on the right. I'm not even going to bother explaining which one is me (here's a hint: I'm not the sign behind Katelyn).

So, without any further distractions, welcome to Japan: Unplugged.

We leave for Japan in a little over a day. Wish us luck.